Saturday, September 12, 2009
Friday, September 4, 2009
About a week ago I packed a bag and took myself on a trip to the beach. Manuel Antonio was the place. And here are my thoughts, as recorded in my rambling journal at the end of that first day away, August 26…
Stale sheets and a sticky body. Can sheets be stale? For surely these ones are. Can a body be sticky immediately following a cold shower? I tell you the answer is yes. Stale and Sticky. These are currently my two primary physical sensations. The third being the feel of an occasional breeze that blows in my face and through these pages thanks to the fan at my feet. And fourth, fourth is a full stomach and relaxed muscles. I suppose that is five.
Today I arrived in Manuel Antonio and am currently writing this from my room at Sol y Mar Hostel. Let us start at the beginning shall we? For memories sake. I left my house around 7:30am to catch the bus. Hugging Krysta, (for she is a tactile person) waving to Cailah (for she is not) and locking the gate behind me, I said goodbye. The bus from Desamparados to San Jose was crowded during this morning’s rush hour. And it was hot. I made the fatal mistake of sitting on the sunny side of the bus – and man that ball of fire was relentless. I was dripping sweat and embarrassed as I took a glimpse at the Ticas occupying the bus: with their large earrings and painted faces, none of them even looked warm, not even a little damp. I continued to wipe my brow, neck and upper lip on repeat.
Arriving in San Jose I made my way to the Coca Cola bus station. Through the park, right, left on central, and to the end of the walking path. Many blocks later I see the anticipated McDonalds, now do I turn right before or after this McDonalds? Hmm…unclear. I decide before is the better option. I walk awhile, searching for some massive or neon sign with block letters spelling out C-o-c-a C-o-l-a. This does not appear. Just as I begin to feel I am wandering aimlessly I see some buses. Good. Head that way. And just as my hope had appeared it was immediately lost. Now I am officially done for. The bus station is more like a central market. And really I do love me some good market perusing, but not when the product I am looking for is a bus that leaves in minutes. I walk up and down the street to no avail, I then turn into the market, a labyrinth of stores, sellers and stalls, I pop out on the other side. I am lost. And once again I am sweating. As I shuffle in circles all I can hear are the calls of men as I pass and the voice in my head reciting the guidebook, “The Coca Cola bus terminal is one of the most dangerous parts of San Jose, located in the red light district.” Desperate, I ask someone (my language of choice some strange sort of spanglish) she points, I drag my feet, ask another, I turn right, and ask another…Finally. Found it. Buy my ticket, make it on the bus, and thank goodness. I am on my way.
Approximately four hours later (spent dozing, reading, enjoying the lush green passing by my open window) I am in Quepos. Taxi to Sol y Mar, and I have arrived. The owner of the hostel, a tiny Tica who immediately calls me friend, shows me my room and gets me orientated. At this point there is no electricity, which equals no fan, which equals stifling. So I take a cold shower, get on the ol' swimsuit and catch the bus to the beach.
my hostel room.
I didn’t go out to the Peninsula, didn’t go into the national park. No, no that’s saved for tomorrow. Today I just went to the public beach and sat myself down. For hours I read my book. Drank my water. Ate my apple. Enjoyed the interspersed rainfall. Played in the warm waves. And walked along the shoreline.
and this is manuel antonio.
When the sun started to sink I explored the market and made my way back to the bus stop. After another cold and welcomed shower I once again headed back to the bus stop. I saw a restaurant along the ride home that looked inviting – outdoor seating overlooking the jungle of trees and the ocean. Why not treat myself? As I sat waiting for the bus, and waiting for the bus, and waiting for the bus, my confidence began to wane. Minute after minute it withered until when the bus finally did arrive most of my excitement had died. Wilted, my head hung down low as I gave into feelings of embarrassment. Feeling foolish for being alone I had the urge to turn around and hide in my room for the night. Luckily my resolve and my hunger made me push through. I went to the restaurant, called El Avion, and it was incredible. Once I got over myself and simply let my self-consciousness go, the tension melted and I began to enjoy myself. So after a glass of wine, some seared tuna steak, a cup of delicious Costa Rican coffee and three waiter friends later, I was feeling pretty great. So glad I forced myself to dine alone. To make it a dinner that counts – soaking in my surroundings and lingering over coffee. The waiters invited me to some club as I was leaving, “It’s ladies night,” “You’ll be taken care of,” “See you there!” I laughed as one tried to wave goodbye and ran (literally ran) into a table – causing an uproar from his friends.
Back to the bus stop. I read Isabel Allende while waiting. As I struggled to unlock my door back at the hostel, tiny Tica called out “Como Esta?” “Locked out” I replied. She laughed, “Oh Muchacha…” and came over to give me a tutorial on locking and unlocking doors. After inquiring about my plans for the evening I told her I was staying in, at which point she responded, “No! You should go out, it’s ladies night!” “I know,” I laughed, “But I don’t want to go alone.” “I don’t either,” she instantly replied, “we’ll go together, not to get drunk, no no I don’t do that, either do you, just for some beer.” I wish you could see how beautiful and earnest this woman was, how sincere she was in her offer. It kind of broke my heart to tell her no. Perhaps if I had a friend with me I would have gone, or perhaps if I were my carefree friend Victoria Whaley I would have said yes. But for now, I feel quite content with the shape my day has taken. Yes. A discoteca may have simply pushed me over the edge.
Goodnight.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
August 11, 2009
Walking out of the airport I followed Krysta’s directions and turned right, (“it is less crowded” she explained over the phone). Before I could make it through the glass doors I saw her face. On the tip of her toes she waved her hands above the heads of the crowd, smiling and calling hello. We met in the swarm of people and with a hug she took my bag and led me to the car. The drive through San Jose was filled with chatter, updates, excitement and a tinge of nervousness as I took in my new surroundings. After a pit stop at the Janzens (a family working with Krysta and Cailah) where I met several new people and we picked up Cailah, we were on our way home.
Home has a huge gate with a series of locks that need to be opened to gain access. Home is in a neighborhood through windy streets that I am convinced I will never be able to navigate successfully. Home seems to be massive: two stories, three bedrooms, two bathrooms, a laundry room, storage room, kitchen, dining room and living room. The walls of this home are painted every color imaginable, in no apparent order. This new home of mine has lots of character. The shower never gets too warm, and sometimes it just doesn’t get hot at all. It is electrical, so to avoid a short we must not forget to unplug the fridge before we shower. And to plug it back in when finished…this is important! The water gauge on the upstairs toilet needs to be manually turned on after each flush and back off once the tank is full. And never, never, put toilet paper in the toilet, just don’t do it. The windows upstairs display views of lush green mountains and colorful houses stacked like building blocks. And when the front and back doors are open, a breeze plays gently and wonderfully throughout my new home.
Getting a tour I follow Krysta and Cailah upstairs to my room. The walls are baby blue and there is a bed made especially for me, built by a person I have never met it has been awaiting my arrival. The newly bought mattress is dressed up in sheets and blankets of Krysta’s, on loan until I can purchase my own. Lying on the pillow is a postcard of Costa Rica, a welcome note from my new roommates. In the corner, tucked against the wall, is a blue bin covered with fabric of paisley print. Placed carefully atop is a green olive oil bottle serving as a vase, a vase for a daisy whose white open face greets me when I enter. Treats of chocolate and dried fruit lay by its side. This room has been cleaned and scrubbed, it has been carefully and lovingly prepared for me, it is simple and it is beautiful…and I love it.
Today we did something that made this house our own. Paint. We painted the kitchen, laundry room and arches leading into the living room. Covering tan, white, orange and a dark forest green we cut the color selection down from four to two. It is now a combination of “Lime Burst” and what looks like a chocolate milk shake. It is very Andes Mints. And it looks delicious.
And tonight Krysta and I did something I have been looking forward to for months: a long conversation over a cup of hot tea. Sitting in our new kitchen, the walls still drying around us, and the furniture along with our bodies all huddled together at the center, we sat, sipped and spoke. It feels good to be here.
Monday, July 6, 2009



